I had a week before I had to return to Reno for my next surgery, so I decided that since I was on this side of the world, I should probably scratch some more of my travel itching and go somewhere I had never been. I flirted with a few places, but when I found inexpensive airfare to one of the seven wonders of the world, it was a no-brainer. I was going to Petra Jordan.
The Flight
My journey began with a Wizz Air flight 5303 from London Luton Airport to Amman, Jordan. I thought I would pick up my rental car and drive to the UNESCO World Heritage site by 4 p.m., but that was not what the gods wanted. First, the plane was delayed because they had to "fix" a few things, and then, just when I thought we were taking off, we went back to the gate. Apparently, one of the passengers was having a slight heart attack. By the time he got off and was taken care of, the crew had reached their legal limit for flight hours, and a new crew had to be called in. We all had to get off the plane, and then, about an hour later, we all got called back on, but it actually ended up being quite fun. People were laughing and talking to each other, and when we had to take all the luggage out of the overhead bins to make sure there were no bombs in there, everyone helped each other out. I feel like I made some friends. So, five hours late, around 9 p.m., I arrived in Amman, Jordan. I do like to walk the line of risk, but driving in the middle of the Jordanian desert at night was too much. Unfortunately, I had to spend my first night near the airport. My adventure would have to begin tomorrow.
The Art Hous
I awoke to a beautiful day and set off on a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Petra, following a traditional breakfast of cheese, hardboiled egg, hummus, cucumber, and tomato. After roughly two hours, the water and coffee I had consumed required a stop, so I pulled over at the intriguing Art Hous Restaurant. There, I was warmly welcomed by three playful balls of fur tumbling down the grand staircase and a friendly man who greeted me with "welcome, welcome." After using the restroom, I offered to buy a coffee as a gesture of thanks. He invited me to sit while he prepared it. The restaurant, perched on a hill, boasted a breathtaking view with wind turbines in one direction and desert all around. The man, named Sami, returned with my coffee and joined me for a chat. We spent the next hour discussing topics like pine trees, Trump, sources of happiness, art, and pesto-making. His kindness and openness made it hard to leave, but time was pressing, so I bid farewell. As I descended the stairs, Sami's colleague, Abu Ayad, offered another cup of coffee along with dates and chocolate. I sat down again for another delightful conversation. I noticed a red and white Jordanian keffiyeh for sale, and Sami showed me how to fold and wear it properly. The entire experience warmed my heart, but I had a world wonder to visit, though they insisted I first see Shobak Castle, just a five-minute drive away. So if you ever visit Petra, please stop at the Art Hous; you won't regret it.
Shobak Castle
I arrived at the intersection of Petra and Shobak Castle. I was already 16 hours later than I wanted, but an ancient crusader castle was just a five-minute drive away. What to do? I just followed my gut and was so happy I did. The road wound through the town of Shoubak, which was an experience in and of itself, and then the castle came into view. It was perched high up on a hill. I parked the car and walked up the steep hill to the entrance. A man came out of a little cave room and asked if I had a ticket. I said no, but I have a Jordan Pass. (A quick word of advice: if staying in Jordan and visiting Petra, get the Jordan Pass before you arrive. The cost of about $100 waives your visa fee and allows you access to all the heritage sites, including Petra.) So, he checked my pass and sent me on my way. I slowly wandered through the ancient ruins and quickly realized I was the only tourist in the castle. It was kinda creepy but also very cool. Baldwin I of Jerusalem built Shobak Castle in the early 12th century. Its genius lay in the fact that it was perched on the hill overlooking the trade routes between Egypt and Syria and had an underground tunnel that led to two spring-fed cisterns. The lack of water in the area, being a significant problem, was solved. I wish I had more time, but I was grateful for the stop anyway.
Wadi Musa
I reached Wadi Musa, the town that serves Petra, just before prayer hour. I paused at a city overlook to fully experience the call to prayer before heading to my hotel. I stayed at Infinity Lodge for the night and highly recommend it. The view, the food, the room, and Muhammad, the owner, all surpassed my expectations. I swiftly dropped off my bags and finally arrived at Petra's entrance around 1 pm.
A Little History of Petra
Inhabited since prehistoric times, this Nabataean caravan city, located between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, served as a crucial junction between Arabia, Egypt, and Syria-Phoenicia. Petra is partly constructed and partly carved into the rock, surrounded by mountains filled with passages and gorges. It ranks among the world's most renowned archaeological sites, where ancient Eastern traditions merge with Hellenistic architecture. The Nabateans, an ancient nomadic Arabic people, settled in Petra in the 4th century BC. They were especially noted for their expertise in agriculture, stone carving, and rainwater harvesting. At its peak in the 1st century, it is believed that the population exceeded 20,000, and later in the second century AD, during the reign of King Rabell II, the Monastery was possibly built as a tomb for their king Aretas IV. In 106 AD, the Romans took control, continuing to construct roads and additional temples, but the shifting trade routes to the sea and a significant earthquake in 363 soon led to its decline. The early Islamic era completely abandoned it except for Bedouin nomadic tribes. It remained unknown to the outside world until 1813 when a Swiss explorer named Johann Ludwig Burckhardt persuaded a Bedouin to show him the Treasury by disguising himself as an Arab and claiming he wanted to sacrifice a goat. Petra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site on December 6, 1985, and became a seventh wonder of the world in 2007. This recognition is primarily due to its distinctive architecture carved into the rose-red sandstone cliffs, making it a remarkable archaeological site globally acknowledged for its beauty and historical importance.
My Experience in Petra
After being conned into a very short horse ride (Don't do it! They say it's included in your ticket price, which it is, but then they pressure you for a big tip), I arrived at the Sig. Talk about a dramatic entrance. This narrow canyon weaves 3/4 of a mile through towering sandstone multicolored walls from 299 to 597 feet tall. It is stunning, and then you see glimpses of the famous Treasury. You all know this from the scene in Indian Jones and the Last Crusades. I previously thought this was a set, but it is real and as magnificent as can be.
I spent about half an hour just absorbing this marvel. I was lucky in that there are not many tourists here due to the war in Gaza, but the country, which is based on tourism, is struggling because of it.
After the Treasury, I worked my way towards the High Place of Sacrifice. This is precisely as it is named: a steep hike up through a canyon with stone steps cut into the rock with an animal sacrifice alter with drains cut into the stones for the blood to be channeled. It was eerie. But the views… photographs couldn’t capture it. I sat on the ledge, meeting two key characters in my story. First, Pablo from Spain arrived and sat down next to me. He offered to share his bread with date paste, and we talked about where we were going next and how to get there. He asked if he could catch a ride with me, so with a "we will see how it goes," we exchanged WhatsApp numbers. While chatting, a local Bedouin man I saw earlier with a mule approached us and joined the conversation. He calls himself "Lost" because he is the one who finds all the lost tourists, but his real name is Omar. He mentioned he had a mule if I wanted a ride down. I knew how steep it was. No way. I got up, and Pablo and I said our goodbyes for now.
Omar got his mule, whom he introduced me to as Shakira. Little did I know how intimate Shakira and I would become. We wound our way down the steep staircase, me walking, not on the mule, and Omar would give me a little history and take my photo whenever he thought it was a good spot.
We stopped at the Garden Triclinium to rest. I loved this place. It was not a tomb or a temple but possibly a feasting area for when the dead were placed in the nearby Roman Soldier's Tomb. I can only imagine what it looked like in its day. Thanks to the ingenious water system created by the Nabataeans, they had abundant water despite being in the middle of the desert. It is close to a large cistern that connects to the channels and basins of the ancient water system, so their garden could have remained watered and green year-round. A 26-foot retaining wall to the right of it continues to have plants growing in it.
This is where we met the videographer from above, Luis from Colombia. After he took the video, he said it was a great shot of me and asked if I wanted him to send it to me, so we exchanged WhatsApp numbers and talked about where we were going next. He was also going to Wadi Rum, and I offered a ride if he would like it. We all walked together for a while. Omar had said a few times how amazing The Monastery is at sunset and that I should really see it, offering a ride on Shakira. After Luis agreed, saying he thought it was better than The Treasury, I gave in and got on the mule. But just as Omar and I trotted off, Luis said, "You're not going all the way to the top on the mule, are you? Be careful." I knew this would be an adventure.
The Death Ride
The first part was easy. We raced along, passing The Great Temple, The Colonnaded Street, and Qasr al-Bint, a 75-foot-high temple dedicated to Dushara. Even though I had no idea how far it was, I knew we were chasing the clock to reach The Monastery by sunset. At the foot of the 950-step staircase, we ran into Omar's cousin, who had maybe one of the cutest things I've ever seen. A little puppy was in each side of his mule's saddle pocket.
Because we were pressed for time, he asked to ride his other mule, so the three of us, or I should say eight of us, including the mules and puppies, raced up the steep, cliff-hanging, uneven stairs, dodging the tourists making their way down and the vendors trying to sell things. I just held on for dear life and repeated, "Lean forward, stay in the middle of the saddle" repeatedly. At one point, my butt accidentally pushed a tourist off the stairs. I yelled sorry as Shakira, with steam coming out her nostrils, leaped up the steps. But we did it, and Omar did not lie. It is probably the most awe-inspiring sight I have seen in my life.
We were the only ones there. Omar found some Bedouin tea for me, and I made a friend with a little cat while we watched the last remaining light bath in this magnificent 158-foot monument, also known as Ad Deir. It was built in the early second century AD during the reign of King Rabell II, and it is not agreed upon what it is used for, but later it was used as a Christian chapel, and crosses were carved into its interior walls, which is when it got its name The Monastery. Once the sun set, I realized we had to get down the terror we just rode up. I told Omar I would walk, but the shadows started playing tricks on my eyes, and I stumbled a few times. Yet again, Omar was right. He said Shakira was very familiar with this route and was much more surefooted than me, so I went back on the mule. This time, chanting, "Lean back, stay in the middle of the saddle." We made it to the bottom just as the last of the evening light disappeared, and the stairs started popping out. We still had a couple of miles to go to the exit, but I will never forget riding that mule under the stars in the middle of a wonder of the world, pretty much having the whole place to myself. Truly epic.
Riding with the Boys
The next morning, I thought I might hike back into The Treasury to see the sun rise over it the way I saw it set over The Monastery. However, I woke up to clouds and very chilly weather, so I decided just to hit the road. After a lovely breakfast chatting with some Australian tourists, I picked up the boys, and we started our two-and-a-half-hour drive to Wadi Rum. That was after I got a ticket for driving down a street in the wrong direction. Whoops, they really do need better signs.
The hours flew by. We had such good conversations. Luis is an architect living in London, and Pablo is a world traveler who studies meditation and Buddhism worldwide. We talked about Burning Man, mental health in architecture design, CouchSurfing, and whether my ticket was really a ticket. I enjoyed getting to know them. Once we got to Wadi Rum, we got our tickets to the park, and I dropped them off to find their accommodation. I am sure our paths will cross again.
Wadi Rum
Wadi Rum is a protected area covering 447 square miles of dramatic desert wilderness in the south of Jordan. Massive, sheer-sided sandstone and granite emerge from broad sandy valleys to reach heights of 5600 feet and more. Narrow canyons and fissures cut deep into the mountains, and many conceal ancient rock drawings etched by the peoples of the desert over millennia ago. Bedouin tribes still live among the mountains of Rum, and their large goat-hair tents are a unique feature of the landscape. I was blown away when I arrived at Hasan Zawaideh Camp, one of the few you can drive to. This was my "tent." Talk about glamping.
I considered taking a 4x4 tour before my sunset camel ride, but to be honest, I was exhausted from the wild ride the day before and wanted to hang out in this Mars-like spot in the most fabulous tent I've ever stayed in, so I relaxed for a while.
Rumham the Camel
So, after some confusion, I met my guide in a parking lot at the entrance to Wadi Rum Village inside the park. He introduced himself as Eid and asked me to get in his pickup. I thought, hum, and wondered where the other guests were on tour, but I figured they were already with the camels. But upon pulling up to where the camels were and only seeing one saddled up and ready to go, I realized I was the only tourist again. Eid introduced me to Ali, my guide, and my camel, Rumham, and explained that Ali would guide me to his camp about 3 miles away, and then we would have tea and watch the sunset, and he would drive me back in the truck. So up on Rumham's back, I went. That part was actually okay. Rumham was kneeling on the ground with his legs tucked in. But when he stood up, that was scary. Camels are very tall.
So we took off with Ali walking in front of me, and the scenery and serenity were astounding. We talked a bit, but I really enjoyed the comfortable silence, and you know what? After about thirty minutes, your legs fall asleep, and you can't feel the pain of them dangling off the sides of the camel anymore. After about an hour, we found Eid, and I bid farewell to my caravan. One of my life goals of riding a camel was complete.
Eid had started a fire and handed me some Bedouin Tea and date cookies. The tea is usually mint in the morning and sage in the evening, with a lot of sugar in a small glass mug. After the cold, cloudy start to the day, I was so grateful for the gorgeous afternoon, and the sun was beginning her show. Eid is a Bedouin who has lived in the area his whole life. Although he has a house in the village, he still goes on nomadic trips, sometimes being gone two months at a time. We discussed all sorts of different topics as the sun set. I learned through all my conversations in Jordan that people everywhere want the same things in life: to be happy doing what they love, have their family well cared for, and feel secure. It was a lovely evening.
Camels!!!
The next day was a long drive. Wadi Rum to the Dead Sea is about a four-and-a-half-hour. Looking at what route to take, I saw that I was only half an hour from Aqaba and the Red Sea. Being that close, it would be a shame not to see the famous sea Moses parted, so further South I went. Along the way, I entertained myself by shouting, "Camel!!!" every time I saw one, which was a lot. But the best is the video below:
Red Sea
Aqaba is Jordan's only port city and the country's extreme southern point. I had no idea what to expect, having not planned on coming here, but it wasn't this large, bustling city with high-rise, fancy hotels. I reached the random spot I picked on Google Maps to dip my hands into the water, a fancy hotel, and paused momentarily to enjoy a nice glass of Jordanian wine. It was a quick stop, but I'm happy took the detour.
Dead Sea
Wow, the first glimpse I got of the Dead Sea was stunning. It is a landlocked salt lake between Israel and Jordan, the lowest body of water on earth, and the lowest surface elevation, at 1300 feet below sea level. I thought Death Valley was low. The Dead Sea has a salinity of around 34%, about 10 times saltier than the ocean. That's why floating in the water is a must-do activity here.
I arrived at my hotel and quickly changed into my swimsuit to float in the famous Dead Sea. I wanted a photo, so I asked the lifeguard, Salem, if he would mind taking my picture. He took quite a few and said he would keep it up by his station. This floating thing is really cool. You can't sink. So, after floating around for a while, I got out, and the lifeguard asked me to sit on a stool next to a bucket. "Okay," I thought, "What am I getting myself into now?" So I sat. He grabbed a handful of whatever was in the bucket and my arm and began smothering it on my arm, then the rest of my body. It was very strange, but I went along. This is the famous Dead Sea clay, which is apparently really good for your skin. After I was all covered, he told me to wait five minutes and then go back into the sea, which I did. While trying to get this stuff off, which is not easy, the other guy with the lifeguard goes and finds a hose and attaches it to the shower. He unwinds it and brings it to the sea so I can rinse it off with fresh water. I think I'm done, but I'm instructed to sit again once I get out. This time, it's a bucket of salt. In the same process, I get scrubbed all over, wait, and am instructed back into the water. The hose comes out again, and I get a rinse-off. As I get out, I'm wrapped in a big towel and given a water bottle. I have no idea if they do this for everyone or if I'm just unique, but I tell you, my skin has never felt so good. I felt like a Princess.
To Conclude....
From where I watched this sunset, Israel is less than ten miles away across the water. The green sun flare is almost the exact spot of Bethlehem, where Jesus was born. Another 50 miles west is the Gaza Strip. I am so close to such a place of historical and current importance that I am humbled. I had no idea what to expect from this trip. I grew up with a preconceived notion of what the Middle East and its people are like, but all those illusions are out the door. I tried my best to respect their ways and traditions by dressing appropriately as a Westerner, and I am aware that I only visited the tourist areas, but I was always met with kindness, generosity, and authenticity. There is no "us" versus "them" in this world of ours. That is an illusion perpetrated by leaders trying to keep control. Each person is unique. I'm not saying there aren't bad ones out there, but most of the people in this world want the same thing: to lead a good life, provide a safe place for their family, and get some laughs in. It's a beautiful world. I'm just grateful I can see it this way.
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